More cowbell

We had begun the day early, just as Puerto Vallarta’s partiers were stumbling back to their hotels in the early morning blackness. Our van crept through the darkened streets and we arrived at the OXXO—Puerto Vallarta’s version of a 7-11—where our guide stopped for coffees and Mexican hot chocolates. “How much is this?” one of the women from our van asked me in a whisper as I pushed the button under the picture of the hot cocoa mug, filling my styrofoam cup.

“It’s …

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